JACKSON, GILLETTE & MORAN WY
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I know most of my family remember the “Cutter races” in the winter. Cutters were chariots on narrow snow runners instead of wheels, although they also had chariot races for many years at the rodeos too. Anyway this was a big three day event in Jackson and while they had races at Thayne, W. Yellowstone, Afton etc, the finals were always held in February in Jackson. Chariots were raced from distances of mile to 2 mile etc. Past Gibb Scotts ranch from the Wilson/Hoback (the Y) Junction to the Flat Creek bridge or from the bridge to the Wort Hotel. During the three days they ran Sled Dog races from Wilson to the Wort Hotel, seven miles. The races all ended at the hotel and the crowds would be ferocious, yelling for their team of horses or dog sleds to win. Some of the locals had beautiful horses Joe May, the Wort Bros, John and Jess etc. I remember one of their horses that ran for years all over the west, “Nevada Nugget” beautiful race horse They had several different horses to match the team but Nugget was a beautiful tall Arabian that won many, many times. The people would gamble heavily on the teams and it would bring thousands to town. This went on many years before Snow King Ski Area was built. It was such a big exciting time and even the little kids had a dog that they raced in the kids dog races.
In later years George Robertson had a baby elk move on his ranch, probably its mother killed during hunting season It thought it was a horse and so Robertsons let it hang around. It became a big pet and during the cutter races George would bring it to town and run it pulling him on skiis. I believe it pulled a cart too. Gambling was a way of life when I came to Jackson as a child. There were roulette table, craps, coin slots high stake poker and all the Las Vegas games available. Gambling was illegal in Wyo. But the gaming community of Jackson poured enough money into the state coffers that nothing was done about it. As time went on more and more complaints were coming from State authorities and the pressure was on the local casino owners to shut down. Las Vegas was putting pressure through their ownership of newspapers in Evanston WY and Rawlins and money into the State Legislature as they wanted no competition for Nevada. So eventually the gambling was stopped. Teton County tried to get a county option for gambling but never could get enough legislators to approve it. I think it was too bad.
Jackson had great bands in all the casinos, lots of famous musicians and singers, the Sun Valley Orchestra played summers there at the Log Cabin Bar and later at the Silver Dollar Bar. Winters in Ketchum Id. Can’t remember the name of the leader although I am sure many people can as they were around there for years, had a child or two. Her first name was Lyle, a tall dark haired attractive gal who also was a card dealer. One of the local boys Jack Boyce played the piano. He married a close friend of mine Doris (very pretty half Hopi Indian girl) and until they left we would see each other often after we were married as we each were having our babies about the same time.
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Skijoring, as they called skiers racing while being pulled by horses was quite an event too. But the horses pulling the snow chariots was an amazing sight They raced two teams at a time but occasionally due to some crowding of events they had three teams running neck and neck at breakneck pace down the street from Blacks cabins to the Wort Hotel people screaming and going wild, the snow and ice flying out from under the horses Hoofs, their nostrils flaring, top speed, Ben Hur had nothing on theses cowboys, ranchers and drivers. Lots of money exchanged hands after the races. Still get excited thinking about those great horses and the races they ran. After the investors cleared out timber on Snow King Mt to build a rope tow and hold some ski events people became more interested in skiing. Everyone was talking about “Shushing” the mtn. Fred Feuz a rancher north of Moran, kept hearing about it. Fred was from Switzerland and his daughter Hilda, told me he watched some of the races but kept wondering about this “Shushing” (sp?) the mtn. He was shocked to find out it only meant to go straight down the mtn. Fred didn’t know there was any other way of skiing. While skiing is now the new economy in the winter I loved the old Snow King mtn. During the mid 30/s the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC boys) built a good hiking trail through the trees two miles to the top There was a wooden bench they made at the foot, midway and the third one on top. I have hiked up that old trail so many times, when I couldn’t get someone to go with me to take a book, I went alone. After the ski tow was built, the City Ski hill mgrs decided to bring in some name skiers to try and give the new industry a lift. They brought in Alf Engen and his two brothers. I think Alf was world champion or became world champion. He offered to carry a couple little girls down the hill while he skied. He chose Marion Bennet, my friend for one and me for the other as we both weighed under 100 lbs.The Engen brothers were Norwegian and helped to bring fame to the USA ski industry. One brother became a manager of either Alta or Park City Ski Areas in Salt Lake. I believe one of the descendents was the Mayor of Missoula MT.
In the 30’s my parents were both Democrats and were very pleased with Pres. Roosevelt and his Works Projects Administration helped many people in Jackson to keep starvation from the door The boys who became CCC’s sent their money home each month ($30) and were allowed to keep $5.00 for their spending money. They built trails in the parks and areas, a few roads, WPA built the Teton County Library in memory of Dr. Charles Huff (which in later years I was hired as Library Director) My dream of unlimited books finally came true. I remember when Social Security was first proposed and my parents were making a decision if they should become members. I now know that the reason for S.S was so the government could have a “slush” fund to spend or a so-called Ponzi scheme. There wasn’t any way in the world they could raise taxes as people had no money. So Roosevelt and his cronies set up this method of giving something to the workers while using it for their funding of projects they preferred. Soc. Sec. should have been placed in an untouchable and invested fund for payment back to the people after age 65 yrs. But it was always in the General Fund Budget and consequently is broke as it became Congress and the President’s slush fund to spend at will. Now everyone is crying about paying for it. I think of my Dad and Mom struggling to keep food on the table for six kids, and pay their Soc Sec until they could retire. My dad lived 3 years after retirement so he benefited very little from his payout. Mom used hers for about 15 yrs. My brother Darrel only rec’d it one or two years, so someone is benefiting from their investment. Or Congress has had fun spending their hard earned cash. Many women sewed clothes, blankets for the needy through the WPA project. Teton Pass remained closed most of the time before and during World War II. Transportation generally went South through Hoback Canyon Bondurant, Pinedale, Baggs and to the trains going east and west through Rock Springs. Some effort was made to keep Teton Pass open with Snow Plows but the road at that time was so narrow and steep it was closed many days through the winter and slides would frequently take out the power in town for several days The men who struggled on the pass repairing electric lines trying to open the road with little in the way of warm clothing were to be admired for their courage and fortitude. Now I see the ski clothes of today and think of my poor dad and his friends out in their underwear, overalls a pair of wool socks over cotton ones, four buckled overshoes, a flannel shirt, a jacket and cap. Many of the men took their wives worn out hose and made a cap to cover their ears from the openings at the top to pull over under their hats Even when my boys were going to school in the late forties childrens clothes weren’t much better, heavier ski pants and mittens and knit caps were about the only improvement. It wasn’t until the ski recreation that another industry was born, warm outdoor clothing. And later the Eddie Bauer and L.L.Bean Co. provided insulated clothes with style.
After I married Bob Tomingas, which my mother unhappily accepted, we had a tiny camper and Bob went to work a couple months building the new asphalt highway to Dubois Over the same gravel roads that dad worked on so many years before When the road was finished we moved to Gillette Wy. and he went to work for the park service at Devil’s Tower part time that fall. Bob had just been released from Fitzsimmons Army Hospital in Denver after spending 7 months recovering when we were married. He had been in training camp in Minn and their commander ordered them out with full pack to march 10 miles in 40 below zero weather. Some of the men didn’t go, but he was an obedient farm boy so he did the march and then came down after a couple days with pneumonia. Most of them died including the commander. While a doctor came around occasionally no one was there to take care of a pneumonia patient. Bob laid semi conscious for a week, lost 40 lbs, finally the doctor came around again and told him since he wasn’t going to die they would send him to Fitzsimmons and see if they could get him on his feet again. I think Bob hated all Doctors from that day forward. When he arrived at Denver they Diagnosed “Empyema” water between the chest wall and lungs from lying immobile and from frostbitten lungs It had turned into not only a dangerous situation but one from which many people didn’t recover. This was late thirties before penicillin. He was treated by making an opening between his ribs and inserting a draining tube. This tube had to be removed and cleaned and replaced often. It was a very painful procedure as he couldn’t have any anesthesia with his lung condition and only a numbing medication for the outer layer of flesh. After the ordeal one day he was lying on the table, bathed in sweat and nearly passing out from the pain, one doctor said, “Hey did I hurt you that bad?” Needless to say the doctor would have been stretched out on the floor if Bob had but a little strength. But he did totally recover after months there and didn’t seem to retain any problems from his ordeal.
I mentioned Bensons Pond earlier. This was more of a reservoir than a natural pond. However the clean water flowed in from Cache Creek and flowed out so the pond was good for swimming. Someone had built a raft and kids could get on and with a long pole push it around the reservoir. This water may have had something to do with an original power plant up there. I thought they used generators but it is possible they had some kind of small power supply which needed water for cooling. The power plant Daddy came west to help build up Flat Creek was only used a few years as REA (Rural Electric Power) companies had built the big Bonneville Coal fired electric plant among others. They were going around buying up all the small privately owned companies and bringing a bigger power source into many western rural areas for the first time/ They power companies strung wires across the west making life less difficult for so many. Especially the housewives and mothers. Gone were the wash boards carrying water as it could now be pumped into the house. Whatever else went on during the thirties that was one of the biggest blessings of all. So much druggery through the years to keep a farm and household going..
Many characters and interesting people came to Jackson through the years. While we lived at the Elk Ranch in Moran during the war a Countess from Austria, Hungary or Poland was sent to Jackson by her husband to keep her out of their war torn country. I would see her nearly anytime I went to town as she was very lively, always dressed from top to bottom in beautiful furs she mingled with everyone. She was a social drinker and she loved to play poker. Since gambling was open in Jackson she made her way to the Cowboy Bar and would daily sit in on a high stakes game of poker with the local men. I believe she lived in the Wort Hotel during that time. One time she and a cowboy ? (pseudo, maybe) were going at night from the Cowboy Bar across the alley to the Wort Hotel The Cowboy Bar as all the businesses and homes each had their own cesspool or septic tank. This was before they had a sewer system in Jackson. The Cowboy Bar constantly had trouble with theirs as the pipes would freeze in the winter and have to be dug up as it would flood the alley. They had barriers around the cesspool which had been dug up for repairs this particular winter night. However the Countess and the Cowboy went out the back door of the bar taking the shortcut to the Wort Hotel late at night. Needless to say the Countess was well acquainted with liquor and always imbibed while she was out and about at the bars. So they walked out into the alley and somehow she missed seeing the barriers and stepped into the cesspool falling flat on her butt. The cowboy was standing there laughing at her so she reached up and grabbed his leg and pulled him into the hole where the cesspool sewage had gathered. When they finally got each other out she stripped off her clothes in an entryway to the hotel, had someone get her a robe and went to her room. She then called the Lumleys and had them go down and open up their drug store and she bought all of the perfume they had in stock. She took more than ten baths dumping a bottle or two of the most expensive perfume in each bath. That is the story Florence Lumley and others told me. All of her clothes were burnt in the trash. We weren’t in town at that time but everyone was laughing and shuddering about the midnight swim by the Countess in the Cowboy Bar cesspool. Most of the females in town didn’t go to Bars alone without a male escort but the Countess was a law unto herself. It wasn’t until later during the War that ladies started going into bars without a male with them. All the men were away fighting the War and there were few escorts for young women
Every winter the Wort Hotel hosted the “Forty niners Ball This was a big costume ball. The ladies in town would send to Salt Lake or make a trip down there to get wonderful costumes, Civil War dresses, pioneer clothes, Indian costumes, fur trappers, gold miners with pans for gold, outlaws, cowboys, everyone dressed up/ Bill and Venice Grant usually won as they always wore fabulous costumes from the Civil War. Bill as a General and Venice as a lovely Civil War lady with elaborate dress and hair style. Clover Sterling, the western rodeo clown and the “Outlaw '' in the drama played out on the streets at the Elkhorn Arch always came as a gold miner and brought his mule loade with a pack and pans into the hotel while he partied. Best costumes were chosen. I remember old Mr. Owens who stayed at the Crabtree Hotel in the summer He was one of the first climbers in the Tetons and Mt. Owen is named for him. It is located around two peaks south of the Grand Teton, I looked for it on a map last summer but didn’t see it named. I would see him taking short walks around town. He was quite old then and I don’t know how long before he had climbed the Tetons.
The Crabtree Inn was one of the landmarks in Jackson. It was operated by Rose Crabtree, one of the pioneer ladies in Jackson. I think she was on the original all female town council, library boards and was active in just about anything civic that was going on. Crabtree Inn was a two story small hotel, she may have served the guests meals too, I don’t know The hotel was painted white and sat on the hill going east towards the refuge The business district ended there except for Ma Reeds restaurant. Don’t know much about her but she owned a big one room café with ranch tables sitting around Her chicken and dumplings were well known and she was very generous to local townspeople with any leftovers she had during the depression. In so far as I know, she had no family and when she died someone bought it and rented it as a house. I believe the Charlie Shearer family lived there. Ollie was their son three or four years older than I was. One time his father let him use the family car to take some kids swimming in a hole at the Grosvent River. I was invited because I was with Jimmie Richards probably as Ollie had a girlfriend and was a senior in high school when I was a Freshman Anyway his dad made him promise not to drive over thirty five miles an hour. Just to mention how most kids paid attention to their parents in those days. Ollie never went over thirty five miles an hour, and stayed only the two hours he had promised his dad. The girls changed into bathing suits in the car and the boys went off into the brush. Most of us were still pretty modest. Ollie worked for Bruce Porter at the drug store and went on to become a pharmacist, I think. A really good kid.
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CHILDREN
After Bob and I moved to Gillette we spent a few months at the farm, owned by Bob’s parents, John and Emma Tomingas. They lived on their farm in Canada so there wasn’t much growing on the farm Art had been doing limited farming work on the place. This was just before all the Tomingas brothers went in the service, Art to the Army Henry and Arnold to Air Force Careers. Henry and Arnold were still going to high school in Gillette. Both were seniors. Arnold played on the football team and dislocated his shoulder but he could put it back in the socket with a little help. John Tomingas, the dad had built a little one bedroom house in town so the kids all had a place to stay while going to high school. Sadie, the middle sister went to Moorcroft and worked for George and Leona Lumley while finishing high school. Emma, the mother wanted all the children to be Us citizens and went to any lengths to make it happen, even leaving their farm in Canada and coming down to Wyo where they purchased the small farm and the children were all born, four boys and four girls A young teacher (Bob's previous girlfriend) had given Bob a beautiful black quarter horse from her folks ranch and that was one of the few valuable animals on the place. He was beautifully trained as a cow horse and was tall and wonderfully proportioned. I rode him a lot during that time but he always knew who was “boss” and it was him.
The government at that time was encouraging and paying for farmers to build a water reservoir on each farm to preserve water and for their crops in the summer. The Tomingas family had built a large reservoir and the big quarter horse loved to swim in it.. You could see him at various times of the day swimming around by himself in the reservoir. After the boys all enlisted Emma the mother, came down from Canada, sold the farm, the horse and equipment,and the house in town. She always said there was oil under the property and years later a lot of oil was taken from that area. She tried to keep the mineral and oil rights when they sold it but couldn’t make a sale of the property without giving up the mineral rights Emma was a “water witch” At least all her neighbors in both Canada and U.S. thought she was and they called her anytime they were going to drill a well She told me that she would take (preferably a green ) willow.forked and she would walk around holding on with both hands, she said when she was over strong water sources the willow would start moving in her hand. I asked her what she thought about the process and she told me she didn’t understand it but the people always found water when they dug their well. Emma was a Botanist and had a close relationship with water and growing plants When Emma and John were first married they were living in an Estonian farming community in Canada. Most of the families were first generations from Estonia and when they bought the farm in Wyoming it also was in a settlement of Estonian families many of them direct from the old country. The “Sestraps, Raudseps, Toros” etc were all directly from Estonia. And most of them spoke with heavy accents, Emma could speak 7 or 8 languages. English was the last language she mastered and she had attended the little country school with her older children in the first and second grades until she could read and write it although she never managed the “th” sound and always sounded the “t” and the following syllable after the “th” Example “Threshers” were always the “treshers” were coming to do their grain fields”.. John was always difficult to understand and Emma did all the business for the family.I remember once when I was up on the Canada farm visiting John was really frustrated while looking for some item. The youngest daughter Donna was about 12 years younger than her nearest sibling who was Henry,.and at that time was already grown and married. Anyway John was so upset trying to find the item and he asked 13 yr old Donna where it could be. Donna always spoke slowly and she said , “I don’t know” John stamped around the kitchen, saying “I don’t know, I don’t know, Easy to say I don’t know” I have used that for years when one of the boys couldn’t find some item like gloves. “I don’t know, I don’t Know, Easy to Say , I don’t know”! So true instead of helping.
Several of the eastern Wyo. families eventually moved to Jackson from that area, The Jim Rains,Sr. family who were rural mail carriers in Moorcroft and for many years Jim Sr, and Jim Jr, were the mail carriers in Jackson The Lumleys with their small daughter Delores and one or two others came from that part of Wyo,The Lumleys owned a drug store in Moorcroft and later in Jackson and were the same Lumleys Sadie lived with while in school, During r the war moved their drug store to Jackson Both George and Leona were Pharmacist. They were very fond of Sadie and after her graduation, Lumleys helped Sadie attend business school in Omaha. She and another sister Anne started out in Nursing school, Anne finished but Sadie became ill from something she caught while in training and never went back but changed to Business After we moved to the farm Bob worked part time at Devils Tower but the next spring we moved back to Jackson and he got on with the northern Elk Ranch. This was one of Rockefeller's first ranch purchases and became the Jackson Hole Preserve and. later part of Grand Teton Park.
Have a little story to tell about Jim Rains Jr. Jim Jr and his wife had moved close to our house in Jackson in later years, Jim was hauling the mail to Moose and the Moran Post Office. While the mail was being sorted in Moose Jim spotted a hawks nest in a nearby tree, He decided to climb and see if there were eggs in it. Up he went, however a branch broke and he fell breaking his arm. He was off work for several weeks After it had healed he decided to climb up and see if eggs had hatched etc. Up he went, the second branch broke and down he fell, breaking his arm again. I don’t believe he tried it a third time. We were assigned a big two room log house. on the Elk Ranch It was a huge house but was only divided once down the middle. We had one side and a couple, Margaret and Eddie Dwyer from Cody were on the other side. Margaret and I were both pregnant. She had two older children who lived with their father.in Cody Eddie worked for the summer during haying season and the fall work. They later moved back to Cody. Robbie our first child was born in the Jackson Hospital He died from Polio in 1952. This is a memory I can’t talk about today, I can only say he was so musically talented but his sweet nature made him so loved by those who knew him and his love for his family, he was always trying to care for his two younger brothers, Byron and Henry He and Henry were only a year apart and more like twins, He never moved without making certain that Henry was with him. How Henry recovered from his death I will never know. We had no family around, I was totally “crazy” for several years. Bob had always drank heavily and he became an impossible drunk. This decimated our family or what was left as years of Bob’s drinking had already taken its toll on our marriage. Henry had no one to turn to, no one to help him. I look back now and wonder how he survived. It was difficult for Byron, but he was the baby and only five years old so I spent time with him. But for a year or two I wanted no one around, I didn’t want to feel anything, see anyone or exist A piece of my.heart was torn from my breast. And still is as painful as ever. Robbie played the trumpet, the mandolin. He could read music with just a few months instruction, He wanted to play in a band like Glen Millers Harry James etc His school music instructor, Bill Farmer thought he was a musical miracle as he kept perfect time to music from the time he was taken to the country school dances at Moran when he was a year old.
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